Tangos II: Exceeding its early promise
On an early summer night, we paid a return visit to Tangos II, which we previewed shortly after it opened in the winter (see First Bites article in February 4th edition).
Back in those early days, we opined that the second coming of one of Vero’s all-time favorite chefs, Ben Tench, was going to provide beachside diners with a great new Southern dining experience.
Four months later, we can report that Tango’s II is at least as good as we thought it was in the early going, and perhaps poised to take its place as the island’s top spot for a dining night out.
On our most recent visit, I started with one of the evening’s off-menu appetizers – flash-fried rock shrimp in a martini goblet ($10.50) in a delectable rémoulade sauce.
The rock shrimp from Cape Canaveral, sweet and delicious, appear to have replaced what was my husband’s favorite appetizer, flash-fried oysters. A fine switch as far as I’m concerned; the rock shrimp were superb. But my husband voiced the hope that the substitution was not a fallout of the current Gulf crisis, and that oysters will be reappearing sometime soon.
On this occasion, my husband started with a bibb lettuce salad ($7.50), a very nice salad with a creamy blue cheese dressing and topped with Granny Smith apples, spiced roasted walnuts and cranraisins. Our companion had the roasted red pepper bisque ($7.50), a creamy dish that was close to perfection.
For main courses, our companion had Ben’s signature southern fried Maine lobster ($17.50), a nice lobster tail (you can get two for $27.50) served with toasted almonds and a lemon cream sauce, and accompanied by chive mashed potatoes and sautéed baby string beans.
My husband had pan sautéed North Carolina flounder ($26.50), topped by a compound butter sauce, accompanied by mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus. The flounder was delicious.
I had the pan blackened yellowtail snapper ($26.50) on a bed of rice and fennel, topped with a tropical fruit salsa. The snapper was prepared perfectly, and the salsa offset the modest heat of the spices.
For dessert, we enjoyed the apple empanadas ($8.50), also known as tarte tatin – puff pastry with juicy caramelized apples. This dessert is good enough to totally deflect any thought of adjourning to Kilwin’s next door.
My husband also enjoyed Tango’s wonderful espresso.
One appetizer we regret not trying on this visit was the Maine lobster fritters. When we were last there, the fritters were almond crusted, and lightly fried as only a Southerner can prepare them. Served with a papaya-mango salsa and key lime butter sauce, they melted in your mouth.
Now, we are told Ben has changed his whole approach. They have become sweet and sour fritters, served with an Asian cucumber slaw and toasted macadamia nuts. An early return to try this Asian orientation is on the schedule.
From a previous visit, we also can recommend the tender New York strip ($29.50) which is pepper crusted and currently being served with roasted garlic mashed potatoes and sautéed ratatouille.
While portions at Tangos are more than adequate, they have never been supersized, and Ben remains in the vanguard of the less-is-more school of dining. But the presentation of the dishes is most elegant.
Dinner for two (before wine and tip), if you enjoy a full meal like the one above, is likely to run $90 to $100. If you decide to dine light, you can enjoy a great meal for considerably less. Wine prices here, however, tend to run high – and even a modest bottle can quickly boost a dinner tab for two to $150 or more.
I am extremely impressed by the continuing evolution of the menu since Ben opened this new incarnation of Tango’s in the late winter.
The attractively decorated restaurant itself is a bit on the small side, and can be more than a bit noisy when full. But overall, Tangos II appears to work better than the bigger Tangos of yesteryear.
With many of Ben’s fans from yesteryear up north for the summer, I would urge year-round residents who have not tried Tangos II to make this a must-visit in the weeks ahead. This gem of a restaurant deserves our support.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com.
The reviewer is a beachside resident who dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
Hours
Dinner , Tuesday through Saturday, from 5:30 pm
Bar
Beer and Wine
Address (MAP)
3001 Ocean Drive, Vero Beach, Telephone: (772) 231-5553
