Sonya’s: Doesn’t measure up to its ratings
If a second marriage, as Samuel Johnson famously said, is “the triumph of hope over experience,” I wonder what he would have had to say about a return visit to a restaurant we weren’t all that enthusiastic about the first time around.
Oh well, in the “hope springs eternal” category, back we went recently to Sonya’s – the fine dining restaurant at Disney’s resort in Wabasso – which for the umpteenth year is listed by Florida Trend Magazine in its 2010 “Great Florida Restaurant Guide” as one of the two best in Vero Beach.
For years, we have been mystifi ed by this accolade – and when we reviewed Sonya’s a year ago in the belief that maybe we had missed something, we came away more perplexed than ever. But who knows. Things can always change, and occasionally for the better.
So once again, we pick up the phone and call for a reservation. You may recall that last year, when we tried to book for 7 pm, we were told nothing would be available until 7:40. This year, when we asked for a reservation at 7, we once again were told nothing was available. “The earliest we will be able to take you will be 7:05,” the reservationist said. “Will that be okay?”
O-kaaay, we agreed. And just like last year, when we arrived at the appointed hour, we found ourselves looking out at a two-thirds empty dining room. Only four of the tables had diners.
The dining room at Sonya’s has always had a clubby feel, and our very nice waitress quickly presented a basket of warm, homemade sourdough bread, as well as the chef’s amuse of the day – a small scallop served ceviche style. A promising start.
For a first course, we enjoyed salads of baby spinach ($9) served with dried cranberries, candied pecans, blue cheese crumbles, and a warm applewood bacon vinaigrette. Very tasty.
For a main course, one of my companions ordered the pan seared jumbo scallops ($33). We have had these at Sonya’s before, and it may be their best dish – five juicy scallops served with sautéed spinach on a bed of lobster mashed potatoes, in a sherry lobster beurre blanc. Excellent.
Another member of our party ordered the oak-grilled tenderloin filet ($36), served in a red wine sauce surrounded by a truffl e infused macaroni and cheese. He pronounced the filet good, but not great.
My husband this time ordered the oak grilled char crusted rib eye steak ($34) served with herb roasted marble potatoes, a ragout of chanterelle and hen of the wood mushrooms, and cipollini onions.
The steak was presented drowning in a cloying sauce Béarnaise, and to say the steak was chewy would be an understatement.
I ordered the catch of the day, which we were told was Covina. I confess, this was a new one on me, and I inquired where it was caught. Just off the Florida coast, I was assured. While the waitress was unsuccessful in getting the kitchen to further identify the fi sh, a little research suggests it was probably either black or red drum. I guess Covina sounds better.
The flesh of the fish ($28) was solid white, firm, not dry or oily, and the filet was served with a tasty polenta, Florida rock shrimp and tasso ham gravy, and fried leaks. While our seafood on a previous visit was overcooked and dry, the Covina (whatever it was) was cooked perfectly, and this was a very nice preparation.
For dessert, we gave some thought to sharing the restaurant’s Pièce de résistance — a sinfully rich chocolate plate ($12) that includes chocolate cake, chocolate sorbet, a large chocolate covered strawberry and chocolate truffles.
We have enjoyed this before, but decided this time in the Friday-after-Thanksgiving-dinner afterglow to give these unneeded calories a pass. This is a restaurant serving good — but not great, and far from inexpensive — food. Dinner for two (with a modestly priced bottle of wine) easily runs $120 - $140 before tip.
Management estimates that about two-thirds of the diners at Sonya’s are guests at the resort, and that number may be low. We have seen very few “locals” there on our visits.
Some year, we are hoping Sonya’s measures up to its Florida Trend Magazine rating.
For those accolades, and the kind of prices it charges, it needs to be better and more consistent.
Our reaction this year – as it was last – to the notion of Sonya’s being one of the two best restaurants in Vero Beach is unchanged: ‘Ridiculous.’
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com.
The reviewer is a beachside resident who dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
Hours
Thurs-Sun, 6 – 10 pm
Bar
Full Bar
Address (MAP)
Sonya’s at Disney’s Vero Beach Resort, North A1A just south of SR 512
Telephone: (772) 234-2180
