Polo Grill: Second time around is a charm
Six months after John Marx returned to Vero and reopened his Polo Grill, beachside residents are once again flocking to this ever-popular restaurant.
In fact, so many of the Polo Grill’s fans have returned that Marx already has had to expand, adding an enclosed area to the north side of the restaurant that now enables him to accommodate an additional 50 diners each night. No recession here!
While one attraction of the Polo Grill has always been the American bistro menu, serving a variety of comfort food items such as meatloaf and roasted chicken, a big part of the draw for many is the ambiance -- dark wood, leather chairs, almost like belonging to a club.
On a recent Thursday evening, three of us went there (fortunately with a reservation) and were seated in one of the high-backed booths in the middle of the room. The good news for many island residents is that the Polo Grill recently got a full liquor license, so it’s now possible to start your meal with a favorite libation.
On this visit, however, we began with a bottle of fume blanc ($32) from a very reasonably priced wine list. For appetizers, I chose the shrimp scampi ($12.95) and my husband opted for the classic escargot ($9.95).
The scampi – five shrimp sautéed with garlic, bits of fresh tomatoes, white wine and lemon butter – was sumptuous. The escargots, French snails banked in garlic butter, were tender but not even close to as garlicky as my husband would have preferred. That did not keep him, however, from using the crusty French bread to mop up the plate.
Next came the salads, which now are included with entrees. I chose a Caesar salad – crispy romaine hearts, garlic croutons and shaved parmesan cheese – while my husband and our companion had blue wedge salads. The latter were very nice, consisting of a wedge of iceberg lettuce, chunks of Danish bleu cheese, crisp bacon, and topped with a creamy bleu dressing.
For entrees on this visit, our excellent waiter talked my husband and I into two of the specials of the evening, pompano ($29.95) and Swedish chicken ($23.95). Our companion ordered the Polo lump crab cakes ($24.95).
My sautéed chicken was prepared with lingonberries – a tart wild red fruit that is a staple in the Scandinavian diet – and topped with two slices of melted brie cheese. This unusual combination of tastes actually worked well, resulting in a very tasty dish.
My husband’s filets of pompano – a favorite from the old days -- were lightly dusted and quickly sautéed in a delicate lemon beurre blanc. Our companion’s crab cakes, prepared with light seasoning and served with a creamy pesto lemon aioli, had a bit more breading than she would have preferred but were tasty.
The entrees all were accompanied by either rice or potato, as well as mixed vegetables.
On previous visits, we also have dined on the chicken marsala ($22.95), a thin and tender chicken breast sautéed with mushrooms, butter and marsala wine, and the grilled sea scallops ($28.95) sautéed with chardonnay butter. All of the entrees we have tried at the Polo Grill has been well-executed, with seafood dishes coming to the table moist and tasty.
At dessert time, we were offered a complimentary scoop of Häagen-Dazs of mango sorbet or rum raisen ice cream. While our companion and I went for the mango, my husband ordered a slice of Key Lime pie, which he found a bit too sweet (though that did not keep him from eating it).
Dinner for two with a modest bottle of wine should run about $100 before taxes and tip, and for the budget conscious, and early bird menu for anyone seated by 5:30 can cut the cost of dining at the Polo Grill to about half that.
This is the kind of club-like restaurant where many island restaurants clearly feel very comfortable. The dishes are familiar, and rendered well. From meatloaf at $17.95 to filet mignon bordelaise at $29.95, you will find it hard to go wrong.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com.
The reviewer is a beachside resident who dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
Hours
Monday to Saturday,
5 pm to close
Bar
Full bar
Address (MAP)
2855 Ocean Drive, Vero Beach, FL, Telephone: (772) 231-4090
