Mimmo’s Scampi Grill: An oldie but goodie
While the new restaurants in town always tend to get the attention, there is something to be said for oldies but goodies – and among the best of the Italian oldies is Mimmo’s Scampi Grill, which is continuing to go strong in Vero’s old downtown.
This attractively decorated trattoria has long been a favorite of beachside residents. When we first reviewed the Scampi Grill two years ago, we focused on scampi dishes (well, it is part of the name), which were delicious. Last year, we turned our attention to the veal dishes, and found them equally worthy of attention.
This year, we combined old and new. On our most recent visit, my husband tried Mimmo’s latest special, veal aosta ($22.95), while I chose what surely is any Italian restaurant’s most basic standby, clams in garlic sauce ($18.95).
At the Scampi Grill, of course, clams in garlic sauce are taken to a higher level as Mimmo’s “Ultimate Vongole” -- farm raised Rhode Island littleneck clams sautéed with extra virgin olive oil, Italian herbs, roasted garlic, and finished in a white wine sauce served over linguine. And if this is not the ultimate rendition of this dish, it comes close. Absolutely delicious.
The veal special, however, was the evening’s mystery dish. The waiter didn’t know much about it, and we at first were guessing it was going to be a variant of veal d’aosta – a dish common to the Aosta Valley, the mountainous region of Italy at the foot of the French Alps, where veal chops are prepared with fontina cheese, the region’s signature cheese, which has a distinctive, sweet taste.
But no. The waiter insisted Mimmo’s veal aosta was prepared with mozzarella, not fontina. And when it came, sure enough, the veal cutlets were topped with mozzarella, along with artichokes, sweet green peas and tomatoes, and finished in a creamy red pepper sauce.
The dish was very nice, the veal was perfection, the artichokes gave the preparation a nice tang, and my husband certainly enjoyed it – but we still are not clear on why it is called veal aosta.
For appetizers on this evening, we shared an order of calamari fra diavolo ($9.95) -- tender calamari sautéed with roasted garlic, infused olive oil, and fresh herbs tossed in a spicy marinara sauce. We’ve had it before, and we will have it again. Excellent.
On previous visits, we have enjoyed the calamari salad ($9.95), light and tender calamari marinated in lime juice, served with extra virgin olive oil over organic mixed baby greens, as well as the steamed clams -- tiny sweet clams, tender and tasty -- prepared with olive oil, scallions and shallots with a splash of lemon juice.
Following the appetizers, you automatically get Mimmo’s house salad as part of your dinner – fresh field green salads served with a choice of light dressings.
Other entrees we can recommend from visits to Mimmo’s include the veal piccatta ($19.95), the veal caprese ($21.95), the veal and shrimp ala scampi ($20.95), as well as the shrimp & scallops imperial ($20.95), and the pan seared jumbo shrimp and scallops sautéed with olive oil, fresh Italian herbs, and roasted garlic topped with lumps of crabmeat, fresh spinach, romano cheese, finished in a basil cream sauce served with angel hair pasta.
On this most recent visit, for dessert we shared an order of tiramisu – a light rendition that is one of the best to be found in Vero. Dinner for two with a modest bottle of wine comes in under $100 before tip.
As we have suggested before, Vero is not lacking for very good Italian restaurants – and Mimmo’s ranks right up there with the best.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com.
The reviewer is a beachside resident who dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
Hours
Nightly in season, 5 pm to 10 pm
Bar
Beer and wine
Address (MAP)
2054 11th Avenue, Vero Beach, Telephone: (772) 563-9766
Online
www.scampigrill.net
