The Lemon Tree: Comfort food for the times
In a trying economy, dietitians say people are more likely to seek comfort food. And at the Lemon Tree restaurant, the comfort food is not only good, but priced at a level that is comforting as well.
That may help explain why on a recent Wednesday night, we wound up waiting 15 minutes for a table even though we had a 7 pm reservation.
The Lemon Tree, which drew full houses even before the current economic crisis, continues to be packed, night after night, by beachside residents seeking value. And value is what the Lemon Tree offers: a total package starting with a glass of wine, a choice of soups accompanied by crisp bread, a demi-salad, an entrée with side dishes, and a tiny sorbet, all for a total price that starts at $15.99.
The wine comes to the table within seconds after you are seated, the server bringing to the table a bottle of Beringer’s Stone Cellars cabernet in one hand and a bottle of Stone Cellars chardonnay in the other, asking which you would prefer for your complimentary glass.
While these are wines that sell in your local liquor store in the midsingle- digits, the people at Beringer produce decent wines even at the low end, and those dining at the Lemon Tree generally seem satisfied.
Your next decision at the Lemon tree is a choice of soups. On recent evenings, we have tried their lobster bisque, the pea soup, mushroom soup and the chicken vegetable soup.
If you are looking for comfort, you can hardly pass up the chicken soup. Quite tasty. The pea soup, also good, had a smidgen too much salt. The lobster bisque, creamy and tasty, relied a bit too much on lobster broth and was smooth but bland. The cream of wild mushroom soup –a nice mix of mushrooms and cream – was just right.
The soups are presented with chunks of sourdough bread on the side. The bread is as good as you will find anywhere. Salad, more or less, also comes with your dinner – served on the same plate as your entrée. The mini-salad consists of one large slice of red tomato and a slice of mozzarella topped by a dollop of pesto mayonnaise.
As for the entrees, if you are in serious need of comfort, the only choice is the traditional chicken pot pie ($15.99). This is the best chicken pot pie in town, a large bowl of freshroasted chicken, potatoes, onions, carrots, peas and broccoli in a rich sauce, topped by a flaky crust. Warning: it is served very hot.
My husband says the chicken pot pie is the strongest argument for visiting the Lemon Tree.
Meanwhile, I tried the classic shrimp scampi ($20.99), shrimp sautéed with wine, tomato and herbs tossed in a chardonnay, lemon beurre blanc sauce. I thought this dish was very good. On our second visit, I ordered the chicken picatta ($18.99), lightly sautéed chicken in a creamy white wine lemon caper sauce. Again, very good.
My husband, who had the chicken pot pie on our first visit, had the classic crab cakes ($20.99) on the second. Described as lump crabmeat folded into homemade cornbread, and grilled to perfection, these were the one major disappointment. The three cakes had more of a cornbread than crab taste. If you are craving crab cakes, there are better local options.
On the first visit, our companion ordered chicken Morocco ($18.99), spiced grilled breast of chicken topped with sun dried tomatoes, kalamata olives, herbs and creamy goat cheese. Not bad. But on the second time around, she shrewdly ordered the chicken pot pie.
Most of the main courses come with either a potato or chef’s choice of vegetables. On both visits, we found the potato tasty, and the steamed vegetables well prepared.
For dessert, on both nights, we had the tiny glass of sorbet which comes with the meal – on the first visit a raspberry sorbet, and on the second visit a very tart lemon sorbet.
On the both occasions, dinner for three (including the wine) ran between $60 and $70 before tip. Hard to complain about those prices. Plus, you can dine for a few dollars less by ordering “petite” versions of a number of Lemon Tree dishes.
This restaurant has found a niche – comfort food – and is filling it very comfortably. It may not be the top gourmet dining in town, but you can take comfort in knowing it may be the top beachside dining value.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com.
The reviewer is a beachside resident who dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
Hours
Monday through Saturday, from 5 pm.
Also serves breakfest from 7 am and lunch from 11 am.
Bar
Beer and Wine
Address (MAP)
3125 Ocean Drive, Vero Beach, Telephone: (772) 231-0858
