11 Maple Street: One of the very best in our area
For years, any time the subject of best restaurant in the area came up, someone was sure to mention 11 Maple Street, a charming and romantic bistro located in a century-old Florida cottage on a side street just off the main thoroughfare in Jensen Beach.
Owner Mike Perrin, a self-taught chef, has not only developed a large, loyal following over the years for such seldom-seen-locally dishes as spotted skate wing, sturgeon and elk, but has regularly won high marks from Zagat, Florida Trend and other guides.
So as part of our expansion of reviews to restaurants a bit more distant from our barrier island, we recently paid two visits to 11 Maple Street.
On our first visit, we were seated in one of several cozy dining rooms (there also is a patio surrounded by gardens) and were presented with single-page menus that change every couple of weeks.
On one side of the menu were a couple of dozen “small plates” – dishes ranging from a mixed olives plate ($7.95) and an assortment of salads up to small entrée sized seafood, beef and rib specialties running about $20.
Each of these small plates was accompanied by a suggested wine available either as a full six-ounce glass or a three-ounce half-glass.
On the flip side of the menu were just four “large plates” – more traditional entrees which on this visit ranged from oak grilled natural duck breast and duck leg ($38) to steak, elk and grouper priced in the mid-$40s.
While many diners apparently order a selection of small plates and share, we decided on this evening to each go his or her own way.
All three of us decided to start with salads. I chose the roasted beets with laurel chenel goat cheese and watercress ($12.95) dressed with a walnut vinaigrette. My husband and our companion both opted for the warm escarole salad containing crispy calamari, fennel and white beans ($14.95) with a parmesan dressing. The salads were excellent.
Then for main courses, I ordered the local black grouper with grilled saltwater prawns ($44) off the main menu, and my husband and our companion ordered small plates: the wild Alaskan King Salmon ($25.95) and the blue crab cake ($17.95).
The black grouper was a beautiful, pan-roasted piece of fish, perfectly prepared, and accompanied by crispy eggplant and plated with an orange saffron fennel essence.
The georgeous piece of Pacific salmon was wood-grilled rare, and served with bok choy and shiitake mushrooms in a dashi beurre blanc. The crab cake, served with a fried green tomato and a carrot reduction, was as good as crab cakes get.
For dessert, we ordered the flourless chocolate cake – a selection that will delight chocoholics – and the key lime crème brulee, a nice way to end an excellent meal.
On our second visit, I started with the escarole salad and my husband ordered the grilled asparagus with taleggia and a braised pork belly ($14.95). The latter is a wonderful dish, served with a poached egg atop the spears of asparagus, alongside a meltingly tender, flavorful pork belly.
Then for entrees, I had another small plate – the Baja sea scallops ($20.95) – while my husband opted for the North American elk tenderloin ($46).
The scallops – two perfectly pan seared orbs – were served with an anchovy crostini and a refreshing fattoush salad, a medley of Mediterranean tastes with orange slivers, golden plump raisins, mint, parsley and feta cheese. Almonds and slices of pita atop provided the crunch.
The wood grilled elk tenderloin came medium rare, accompanied by roasted faro and butternut squash, with a dried porcini sauce. The taste of farm raised elk is similar to beef. The oak grill imparted a slightly smoky flavor, and my husband reported the elk was surprisingly moist and tender.
For the health conscious, farm raised elk is much leaner than beef, very low in fat and cholesterol and the animals are not treated with growth hormones or chemicals. Perrin and his wife Margie make a big thing of offering beef and poultry free of chemicals, seafood caught in the wild, and feature organically grown produce when available.
On both visits, the service was knowledgeable and extremely attentive. Dinner for two, accompanied by the suggested wine pairings, is likely run about $150 before tip.
The inventiveness of the food and excellent service in romantic surroundings combine to make dining at 11 Maple a very pleasant experience. For a special occasion, it is certainly worth the 45-minute drive.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com.
The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963
Hours
Wednesday to Sunday, 5:30 pm to closing
Bar
Full Bar
Address (MAP)
3224 Northeast Maple Avenue, Jensen Beach, Phone: (772) 334-7714
Internet
www.11maplestreet.net
