Mention Cuban cuisine to 32963 residents, and the first thing that jumps to mind for many is Oriente – the innovative Cuban fusion restaurant which has enjoyed a highly successful debut season at Gloria Estefan’s beachside hotel.

But for hardcore fans of traditional Cuban cooking, one of Vero’s better kept secrets for the past several years has been Felix’s Place, where the food ranks right up there with what you would hope to find on Miami’s Calle Ocho or in Tampa’s Ybor City.

You read that right. First-rate authentic Cuban food right here in Vero Beach.

The reason Felix’s has not developed a greater following can be summed up by that old real estate maxim: location, location, location. Unlike Oriente, housed in the stylish Costa d’Este hotel on Ocean Drive, Felix’s Place shares a building with a minimart behind the Chevron gas pumps near the southern end of 43 rd Avenue.

It’s not the easiest place in the world to find, but it is not impossible. And don’t let the nondescript exterior deter you. Inside, you will find some of the best Cuban food you have ever tasted, served in a family-run restaurant with an ambience that I would describe as homey.

On our most recent visit, we started with a bowl of the ajiaco ($4.25), the grilled calamari steak ($7.95), and a special avocado salad with ceviche ($13.95). (If you are at all hesitant about what to order, Felix and members of his staff are always close by ready to offer suggestions.)

Ajiaco is a Cuban stew which can include different indigenous root vegetables. This tasty rendition had yucca, with the flavor further enhanced by chorizo in the broth.

The avocado and ceviche was a very nice mix – the fresh avocado creamy and smooth; the ceviche adding a bit of a bite. Best of the appetizers, however, was the grilled calamari steak – tender calamari sliced into thin strips and served in a balsamic reduction sauce. Fantastic.

For main courses, I ordered Felix’s version of veal scaloppini ($18.95). My husband also had one of that evening’s specials, a grilled yellow tail snapper ($23.95). One of our guests ordered the palomilla steak ($12.95), the quintessential Cuban beef dish topped with lime juice and chopped onion, and our other companion had the ropa vieja ($12.95).

The ropa vieja, flank steak braised until it can be shredded, was served in a light sauce and was very tasty (though the sauce may have contained a smidgen too much salt). Our other guest gave high ratings to the palomilla steak, though this thin steak had been cooked a bit past the desired medium rare.

The yellow tail snapper, brought in by fishermen just that day, was brought to the table whole, skin nicely crisp, presented in all of its glory. My husband, who has never been keen about dissecting food, appealed to chef Felix (who is constantly darting in and out of the kitchen) for assistance.

Felix’s deft tableside surgery left chunks of perfectly cooked yellow tail on the plate, just right for effortless eating.

But the snapper was rivaled for dish of the evening honors by my veal – three large cutlets served in an extremely tasty light cream sauce. I offered tastes to my companions until I became concerned that others were coveting my entree. Just wonderful.

Virtually all dishes come with two sides – a choice from white or yellow rice, black beans, sweet plantains, yucca, French fries, fried bonito (Cuban sweet potatoes) or Moro rice (white rice cooked with black beans). Unlike the main courses, the sides mostly seemed quite bland. Our consensus recommendation would be the black beans and the plantains.

On an earlier visit, we tried three different entrees. I had the seafood casserole ($19.95), my husband had the pork osobuco ($19.95), and our companion had the Cuban paella ($18.95).

The paella and the seafood casserole were both a bit on the dry side (and I confess to a preference for Spanish paella), but the pork osobuco was wonderful – a very large shank with the flavorful pork simply falling off the bone. Highly recommended.

On both occasions, for dessert, we tried the home-made Key Lime Pie ($4.50 -- good but a bit too sweet for my taste), and the flan ($4.50 -- a superb version of this Cuban egg custard dish).

Dinner for four with a nice bottle of Spanish wine runs around $150, before tip.

The good news for seasonal residents of 32963 is that when you return in the fall, Felix’s will be a bit more accessible. The restaurant will be moving in November into the former Modernage building currently being remodeled at the east end of Miracle Mile. Felix tells us his expanded restaurant will serve breakfast as well as lunch and dinner, and also have a take-out bakery.

But if you are one of our many year-round readers, we would encourage you to not wait. The restaurant is really not that hard to find, and we would hate for you to miss out on six months of good Cuban cooking at Felix’s Place.

I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com .

The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.

Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 11 am to 9 pm

Bar: Beer and Wine

Address: 40 43 rd Avenue

Telephone: 772-562-3317

Review first published: April 16, 2009