Many of the familiar faces are gone. Endre, the longtime Maitre ‘d, has moved on. Executive Chef Carole Bowers, who founded Carmel’s along with co-owner Melissa Lausch in 2001 and turned it into a favorite of Vero beachside residents, spends most of her time at their newer Carmel’s in Asheville, NC.

Yet, the Carmel’s on Miracle Mile, now on a night-to-night basis under the direction of Chef Corey Hilberts, continues to turn out the same dazzling food that has made it for most of this decade one of the top restaurants on the western side of the Barber bridge.

Whether your taste runs to seafood or meat, Carmel’s menu with an array of palate-tempting choices always presents some tough decision-making dilemmas.

On our most recent visit, I was only fight off my strong inclination to once again order the sea scallop entrée ($28), which I know from previous dinners to be one of the best anywhere, by ordering the sea scallop appetizer ($10).

While the entrée sees the lightly smoked, pan seared scallops served with a mushroom ravioli, crispy asparagus, roasted beets, pomegranate reduction and extra virgin olive oil, the appetizer version of the same scallops presents them with crispy white stone grits and a caramelized tomato chutney.

When sea scallops literally melt in your mouth, you know they are both fresh and cooked perfectly, and my appetizer certainly did not disappoint.

My husband, for an appetizer, opted for the Escargot ($9.50), which were braised in port wine and served in a small tureen with s autéed crimini mushrooms, fresh garlic, tarragon, and shallots, accompanied by herbed crustini.

This resulting creamy mix was quite different than the standard French presentation, and the appetizer was sumptuous.

For main courses, we tried two of the house specialties. I had the rack of lamb ($28), a sliced three bone rack served with a spring o nion risotto, charred yellow gazpacho, and fresh corn relish. The lamb, cooked perfectly, was as tender and succulent as you can possibly imagine, and the combination of the cold corn relish and the gazpacho were perfect accompaniments to the risotto, which was served almost al dente.

My husband had the Short Ribs ($25), which were braised in red wine and served with caramelized pearl onions, applewood smoked bacon, crimini mushrooms, grape tomatoes and fingerling potatoes. The short ribs were tender and meaty, and fell off the bone with the touch of a fork, and the fingerlings were delicious.

For dessert, our choice on this evening was the Key Lime cheesecake ($8), which was quite tart and better than a number of Key Lime pies we have enjoyed over the years.

One interesting feature at Carmel’s which we have tried on previous occasions is their prix fixe wine-pairing dinner, which varies from week to week and for $45 ($35 if you choose to pass on the wine) represents one of Vero’s best dining values.

On this most recent visit, the prix fix dinner started with Zuppa di Vongole, steamed clams in a garlic and herb infused broth, applewood smoked bacon, cannellini beans, wilted escarole, smoked mozzarella paired with a Bramito del Cervo Chardonnay; Mushroom Flat Bread, consisting of roasted wild mushrooms and smoked gouda on grilled focaccia bread paired with a Pèppoli Chianti Classico; and the B raised Short Ribs served with crispy eggplant and a caramelized shallot ragout paired with a La Braccesca di Montepulciano.

It all sounded mighty tempting.

Over the years, Carmel’s has developed a reputation as one of the top spots for fine dining in this part of Florida. Newspapers from Miami to Melbourne have sung the praises of both the cuisine and the service, and the restaurant remains an excellent value when compared to its peers, which often offer less and charge more.

So we were a little concerned on this Friday night to not see Carmel’s as packed as it has been on some previous occasions. Whether this is a reflection of current global economic concerns, or simply a lull occasioned by the absence of winter visitors who went back north for the holidays, it still engenders unease.

Our strong hope is that the coming season will be a great one for Vero’s top fine-dining establishments – of which Carmel’s is certainly one – and that this restaurant will continue to enjoy the strong support of beachside dining aficionados in the months ahead.

I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com .

The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.

Hours: Dinner Monday through Saturday, 5:30 pm to 10 pm

Adult Beverages: Full bar 

Address: 398 21 st Street, Vero Beach

Phone: 299-7131

Review first published: Jan. 8, 2009