Reviewing a new restaurant during its early weeks of operation is generally a bad idea, neither fair to the restaurant nor to diners.

All restaurants have teething pains. And if the restaurant is mediocre or worse, you can be sure -- particularly in this economy -- it will not be around for long. Hence, no point in reviewing it.

If it is very good, on the other hand, an early review may be no favor. A positive review often sees eager diners flock to the restaurant, overwhelming the kitchen and wait staff before they are ready for prime time. Many Manhattan restaurants have never recovered from a premature review in the New York Times.

Yet after two visits to the Amalfi Grille, which has been open only a few weeks, we feel we would be remiss in not sharing with beachside readers the news that something good finally is happening next to Calvetti’s hair salon on Royal Palm Pointe.

Brandy’s is gone, the Peruvian restaurant that succeeded it disappeared without a trace, but now in that space is Vero’s newest Italian (yes, Italian) restaurant.

On our most recent visit, still only a couple of weeks after the restaurant quietly opened, it was packed on a Thursday night (how did all these people hear about it) – and service was paying the price. The waiter, a new recruit, forgot to remind us that wonderful organic house salads from Osceola Farms are included with the meal, and even touchy-feely proprietor Bob Rose seemed a bit frazzled.

Yet the kitchen was putting out the same spectacular dishes that marked our initial visit. Rose appears committed to providing his chef with the finest, freshest ingredients, and the kitchen clearly knows what to do with them.

The first tough decision you face at the Amalfi Grille comes with the antipasti. The capesante grande ($12), blackened scallops served with a creamy pesto, have drawn raves from other foodies, and we do love scallops, but we chose instead on both visits to split an order of Calamaretti Amalfi ($14).

The calamari here is very lightly fried, and comes with cannelloni beans and cherry peppers in a lemon and white wine sauce. If you like fried calamari (which we do), this preparation is exquisite.

Our companion on our second visit had the Tortellini Stracciatella ($7) as an appetizer, tortellini and spinach in an egg drop chicken broth. The soup, though salty, was good – but I wouldn’t pass up the antipasti for it.

On our first visit, after the fine house salad (ahem), I ordered the Pesce Calabrese ($28), pan seared grouper with Vidalia onions, capers, olives and plum tomatoes in a sherry lemon wine, as an entrée. My husband had the Vitello Amalfi ($24), egg battered veal medallions in a light red marsala sauce with peas, pancetta, egg plant and mozzarella.

The entrees could not have been better.

On our second visit, I was all set to order Gamberi Venetia ($26), shrimp, scallops and sundried tomators in a citrus crème sauce over risotto garnished with asparagus. Then the waiter brought the couple at the next table the salmon special – wild salmon wrapped with wonderful prosciutto, stuffed with cheese, and served on a bed of spinach. I had to have it ($24), and it more than exceeded expectations.

My husband had another of that night’s specials, the osso bucco ($32), which melted on the fork. Our companion had the Rigatoni Melanzane ($18), a rigatoni with eggplant, onions and fresh mozzarella in a light pomodoro sauce. Her only wish was that there had been more of the tasty eggplant.

I fear that I cannot tell you much about the appealing desserts offered at the Amalfi Grille, because on two visits, we have had no room at the end of the meal for sweets. But we have heard several raves about the chocolate dessert, and having not tried it leaves us with an excuse to go back for a follow-up later in the year.

We can tell you, however, that the restaurant has a short but highly satisfactory wine list, with both excellent moderately priced wines like the Rosso Di Montalcino Argiano for $39 as well as some well-regarded reserve Brunellos in the $150 range.

Our guess is that in the weeks to come, as word gets around of this exciting new addition to the Vero Beach restaurant scene, the Amalfi Grille will be sold out on many weekend nights.

But if first impressions hold, it really is that good – so you might want to consider booking your reservation early.

I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com .

The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.

Hours: Dinner Monday through Saturday, 5 to 10 pm

Adult Beverages: Beer and wine bar 

Address: 10 Royal Palm Pointe, Vero Beach

Phone: 564-8218

Review first published: January 29, 2009