The Pomodoro Grill is one of the barrier island's better-kept fine-dining secrets – yet another of the excellent Italian restaurants that for some reason greatly outnumber those serving other international cuisines in the Vero Beach area.
For more than a decade, the Pomodoro Grill has been serving up brick-oven pizzas from the first-floor of an office building on Cardinal Drive.
But the reason many island residents return year after year to this attractively decorated Tuscan trattoria is not the pizza (though that is worth coming back for), but for veal, chicken and seafood entrees that match up favorably with the offerings of the best of the area's upscale restaurants.
On our most recent visit, we started with two excellent appetizers. I had the Pepperoni Abbracciati alla Italiana ($8.95), a very nice assortment of f ire roasted color bell peppers marinated with extra virgin olive oil, capers, calamata olives and fresh herbs.
My husband ordered the Prosciutto di Parma con Grana ($9.95), thin slices of a very tasty prosciutto di Parma topped with thin shavings of Parmesan cheese.
For all except the heartiest appetites, these two appetizers – which complement each other nicely -- make a fine option for sharing among three or four diners to the two antipasti that Pomodoro offers.
We then enjoyed very nice field-green-and-tomato-salads (one with a creamy onion dressing, the others with a tangy tomato-based dressing) that come with every dinner, and munched on Pomodoro's addictive, olive-oil-basted garlic rolls.
For main courses on this night, I had the Gamberoni alla "Papa Giuseppe" ($19.95), sautéed shrimp served over Penne pasta tossed in a yummy sun-dried tomato, fresh basil and goat cheese pesto cream sauce.
My husband raved over the Gamberoni alla "Imperiale" ($19.95), shrimp sautéed with garlic, shallots and fresh spinach finished in a sherry wine pecorino Romano cream sauce.
Our companion had what turned out to be the evening’s sole disappointment: Linguine alla "Vongole” ($17.95), little neck clams served in a white broth over linguine pasta. On this night, virtually all of the broth disappeared somewhere between stove and the table, and the dish was far too dry.
While on this visit we passed up the deserts, we have on previous occasions enjoyed Pomodoro’s delicious tiramisu ($4.95) served in a goblet -- one of the best tiramisus to be found in Vero Beach.
On other visits to Pomodoro, we also have enjoyed the restaurant’s excellent veal dishes.
Pomodoro’s veal chop ($36.95), which was sold out before 7:30 on our most recent visit, is one of the biggest and best found anywhere, and the last time we tried it, the chop was tender, perfectly grilled medium rare, served in a portabella mushroom reduction sauce.
I also can recommend the veal Picasso ($20.95), a scaloppini sauteed with fire-roasted tri-color bell peppers, artichoke hearts and portabella mushrooms finished in a light sherry wine sauce, and the chicken Marsalla ($17.95), breast of chicken also sauteed in marsala wine and flavored with a reduction sauce that included portabella mushrooms.
In addition to its colorful dining room, Pomodoro has an attractive outside garden that is perfect for dining al fresco (or enjoying a cappuccino after dinner) on a warm winter evening.
Any restaurant still going strong after 13 years is probably doing something right, and the Pomodoro Grill -- in my estimation -- is doing a lot of things right.
If you are looking for fine Italian food, attentive service, good wine from a small but more than adequate wine list -- or just a great pizza -- Pomodoro is an excellent choice.
Dinner for three accompanied by a modest bottle of wine comes to about $130 before tip.
I welcome your comments, and encourage you to send feedback to me at tina@verobeach32963.com .
The reviewer dines anonymously at restaurants at the expense of Vero Beach 32963.
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 5:30 pm to 9:30 pm
Adult Beverages: Beer and wine
Address: 3055 Cardinal Drive, Vero Beach
Phone: (772) 234-1123
Review first published: Dec. 12, 2008
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